Mi despedida a San Francisco

"It seems like everywhere I go, the more I see, the less I know..."

I woke up this morning to a bright burst of Sunday sunshine, blue skies and the quintiessential manicured green lawns that exist in sleepy streets of the suburbs of North America. This time, I’ve landed back in Oakville to the familiarity of Mumsy’s modest bungalow tucked within the labyrinth of small, Pleasantville-like side streets in this notoriously excessive suburb of Toronto. This week of preparing for India has been a welcome blessing; providing stable lily pad of which to launch off of into the unknown of India this Tuesday.

I left San Francisco almost exactly 7 days ago, on a dark Sunday morning before the sun had even bridged the horizon. The big blue airport shuttle (BART wasn’t running at that hour) came to collect me as their last stop before the airport, totting a full bus load of sleepy eyed travellers to the impending departures at SFO....

My last weekend in SF, mi despedida, ended up being a grand adieu to the city that has begun a transformation in my mind, my heart and approach on life, and to what has helped bring the Year of Passion to a reality.

That last Friday afternoon in SF, circa 3 pm, I received a text from a new friend, Bryan, I had met that week at Ritual Coffee house on Valencia that previous Wednesday. I soon found out that Bryan is a San Franciscan native, born’n’raised, and thus a rarity in this transient city, who renovates Victorian-era houses by day and photographs musicians and bands by night. Not a bad combo. The text read: “Wanna go surfing?”. End scene. WHAT!??! Last weekend in California and am getting an opportunity to go surfing – POST WORK!!! My little heart could hardly believe it. Fast forward 2.5 hours, and the surfing plan has been kyboshed:

Friday afternoon traffic + setting sun = raincheck.

BUT in its place, a bike ride and ice cream at debatably one of the city’s most unique ice cream joints, Humphry Slocombe on Harrison @ 24th street. One scoop of Jesus Juice sorbet (aka red wine and cola) for me and a double scooper of whammy of Cayenne Cantaloupe and Prosciutto (as in the salted meat)

for B.man, before we made our way to Precita Park for a chit chat

before parting ways for the evening: I to my newly Friday tradition of red wine and friends and him to a shoot with some “picky and last minute” musician friends who were going on tour and needed some pics before doing so.

When it rains, it pours…Brian’s I guess, because soon after, I met up Brian, a former roommate and the Puerto Rican acupuncture student whose current living situation with a middle-aged Sci-Fi author and owner of 2 fat, old cats at a 2 bedroom flat on Treat Street has him hounding the pages of Craigslist for alternate "arrangements". The remainder of the evening consisted of a $4 bottle of wine, great convo and a plethora of ridiculously delicious, authentic Mexican food from La Oaxaqueña, a little gem on Mission Street @ 16th with amazing, authentic food, sweet smiles and a welcome BYOB policy (or in our case BYOW) policy. Pollo y mole (a cocoa/chocolate based smooth and salty sauce from the south of Mexico) corn tamale wrapped in plantain leaves...

a taco (bison, maybe?)and 3 Salvadorian Pupusas (a corn dough “patty” stuffed with anything from spinach and goat cheese, mixed veg to pulled pork or chicken)...

Thirsty for more, we headed to the infamous Café Revolution on 22nd and Valencia. With happy, tipsy souls overflowing onto the sidewalk and streets, the inside of the café was full and two spirited performers were singing, drumming and strumming Spanish music in the corner.

The minty cool of a freshly made mojito, my often-forgotten-favourite drink, complimented the warm air, smooth music and cha cha cha of the songstresses’ handheld shaker.

The following Saturday morning, my eyes were met again with sunshine, and the excitement and unease of fitting in a super Saturday to my last weekend in SF justice. Thankfully, it was not too difficult to do when surrounded by friends and great people, beautiful sunshine, an amazing city and positivity in your mind.

Waking at just past 8:30am, I attempted to finish up packing up – one for my bag to go back with me and another box (or 2) to reside temporarily at Lauren and Sean’s place. A bike ride, a spicy chai coffee @ Haus and trip to the Alemany farmers market with Karla, the capoeira dancing chica

from Puerto Rico who is a former room mate as well, and teaches new media at an inner city school’s after-school program. A few hours later, we collected Caleb from the house, and as the 3 of us peddled our way to Golden Gate Park to join forces with 25,000 spirited, peaceful people at the free Power to the Peaceful music and yoga festival happening that weekend in the park.

An annual event held on September 11, there is no cover fee, just by donation only, and this year featured a 5,000 person yoga session on Saturday morning, a main stage with 5 hours of non-stop music, including the cheerful Cali tunes of Michael Franti.

Just saw he's apparently also caught Obama fever too...

A San Francisco native, Michael Franti is an SF native and recently has been walking barefoot for 10 years to experience what 300 million kids who don’t have shoes feel like...

As we arrived to the centre grounds for the festival, a sea of people, beautiful music, plumes of smoke and rows upon rows of bike racks awaited us. You could honestly feel the energy as you approached.

After a sun soaked afternoon of dancing, hoolahooping, snacking and enjoyment, as the music stopped promptly at 5, the signature fog of SF rolled in and ushered the crowds through to their bikes, cars and sidewalks to head to their next destinations. Karla and I met up again with Caleb and Laura at Laura’s place in the Haight for a warm tea. I came home, made dins, finished packing and moved my bags, bike and self to the place it all began – the Goddess Vortex on Harrison – aka my old house, for my last night, although this night would be spent on the familiar cushions in the living room.

I took a shower 11pm, and in the spirit of seizing every moment, met up with Cliff at just past midnight, despite a 5 AM wake-up that morning for an 8am flight. A dreadlock-ed music teacher also born’n’raised in SF, Cliff and I met for the first time last Sunday, as we passed each other on the street in the Mission last week on a Sunday night.

That night we went to Karla’s recommended hole-in-the-wall dive bar The Attic at 24th and Mission. A vodka soda for me, a Jim and Coke for him, easy conversation ensued and his love of SF, teaching music and life was an eye opener as he brought to the forefront that despite a past of extensive travel, he’s loving life as is now, and couldn’t imagine moving anywhere else, such as some of his friends are doing. To which I replied, perhaps people are moving to new cities to try to find what you seem to have found – happiness, balance and fulfillment in the present. (Ok, I didn’t say that last part, but in reflection, perhaps that what it is.) It’s interesting because this conversation was the first one in a while of which someone has really been truly immersed and fulfilled in what’s in the present – not what has happened, or will happen, or coulda woulda shoulda happened, but what is NOW, present in this moment. Like a tall glass of water, he was refreshing, and the cherry on the YOP goodbye SF weekend.

Love and Haight in India

“If there is no struggle, there is no progress”
At almost 10 am, the streets of Haight Ashbury are slowly waking up. The sky is sapphire blue, bluer than any blue that I’ve seen before in this infamously foggy and overcast part of the city. The house was quiet when I left it this morning in search of a morning nook of inspiration that would do justice for this week’s happenings. After a short jaunt, I’ve found this mornings destination: Coffee to the People.

What feels like a neighbourhood coffee intuition, the classic guitar riffs and slow harmonica chords that accompany the idealist lyrics of “blue skies” and “burning love” on the tunes overhead could only be one person: Dylan.

A distinct hippy feel, this coffee shop not only touts being “the best coffee in the Haight” but also mirrors the vibe, class struggle and passionate, almost angry consciousness that the souls that have, do and will continue to inhabit this neighbourhood.

Today’s quote came quite clearly in the form of a bumper sticker preserved under many a layer of clear shellac on the peach coloured table to my right, although now temporarily inhabited by a man eating granola with soy milk, a glass of fresh organic OJ and on his Mac book browsing….Real estate? Yeah – I didn’t see that one coming either. Each table in the café, and there are almost 25 of them, are small collections of black and white images, articles and posters from times gone by reflecting the golden age and birth time of this neighbourhood: The 60’s & 70`s.

“If there is no struggle, there is no progress” came from the pen and lips of one of the most well-known social reformist in the US to document his time and escape from slavery: Frederick Douglass, as well as defend the suppressed rights for visual minorities and women during the 1800`s. Even 200 years later, his words are still chillingly relevant: from class consciousness to self discovery. Themes of justice, freedom, art, expression are still pumping through the veins of this ‘hood, but for me, the most striking aspect of my temporarily residence here has been in the culture and consciousness of the street people and artists (not necessarily mutually exclusive) of all kinds that paint, draw, strum, drum and beg for food or money with pride, respectively. Even the girl who is dressed in clean jeans and cotton shirt sitting against on the ground resting against a cardboard box, several sleeping bags, a guitar and backpacks outside the coffee shop is reading a novel by – Pablo Neruda, one of the Chile`s greatest gift to the world.

Passion is present in the Haight. Passion to live with freedom and as you choose in a loud and proud way. Being vocal about what you want, where you’re going, what you believe and how you want to go about doing so, is here. It’s raw and unapologetic and a great crystal to insert into the reflections, musings and contemplation of the Year of Passion.

Am staying with friends Lauren and Sean, a early 20-something couple who were brought together while studying abroad in Shanghai a couple years ago, and have since weathered the distance of her being in Buenos Aires and separate travels around the world. They have been subletting a room in a 2 bedroom, mainfloor apartment in an Edwardian Victorian home complete with a gorgeous marble signature San Francisco stoop perfect for morning, afternoon and nightly lounging and landlords that study drama therapy and theatre. The living room, my home for the past week and next 6 days, is like the suite of a museum of the Moulin Rouge. With a distinctly burlesque feel, the eclectic collection of antiques spanned the gamut including an antique baby grand piano, white painted fireplace, old black and white photos of seemingly unrelated people, a vintage seamstresses mannequin made from canvas, `wearing` a black top hat and lace vintage dress, framed posters of Italian films from the 60s, and Asian masks and sun umbrellas on the oversized mantel. All this, AND a large and overstuffed couch which has made a wonderful resting spot for my mind, body and soul as this transition continues as I remain `between`leases before leaving for India :)

Last weekend was a beautiful goodbye to my Mission oasis, Saturday was spent @ the Bike Kitchen learning how to repair the gear de-railer cord and housing and true the back wheel, wandering the Mission Street Food festival, dancing salsa under the afternoon sun to a lively 6 piece latin band on one of the off-shoot streets in The festival, and walking Valencia Street with a mango ice lolli chatting with Brian, the Puerto Rican acupuncture and herbalist. That evening, soon to be former room mates Caleb, the Michigan native astrologer and Karla, the youth art program Puerto Rican with an infectious laugh, biked to the newly opened Ethiopian restaurant Moya on Folsom. Remy, a 22 year old American born Ethiopian works with me at Purity Organic and comes into the office once a week to file documents, and her mother have opened this authentic restaurant in SOMA (South of Market Area) and she was working on Saturday night.

Tofu tibs, 100% teft anjara and other Ethiopian delicacies awaited us before we left to go see the live flamenco, ska and acoustic inspired Makru band perform at a 1 room art space in the Mission.

A Mexican 20-something with talent like Juileta Venegas, a Spanish box drummer, a short, dark haired bass guitarist who reminds me of a former Chilean lust Aaron, and others, compose this amazingly refreshing group of performers.

Sunday, although less tranquil due to the moving of my gorwing collection of “stuff” to lauren and Seans, culminated in an impromptu women’s circle meeting of the females in the Gooddess Vortex on the stoops of our purple Victorian. The Sunday afternoon sun was hot. The steps were asking to be inhabited, and we answered with Sangria, Gin and cucumber cocktails in Mason jars, and girl chats about boys, sex and…knitting.

Olivia, the early 20-something with the knitting needles in hands and 100 watt smile studies full time, and works almost full time at Scarlet Sage, the neighbourhood herbal shop on Valencia. Having attended the desert festival Burning Man as a child, a rare and unique experience for both child and parent, her mother is deeply wound into the world of recycling and waste management within the city and state.

The other Olivia, is a 1983 baby hailing from the culturally rich Aussie capital of Melbourne, Australia, has been a warm and welcome addition to the Goddess Vortex since her arrival with her equally lovely partner Heath almost 3 weeks ago. Both she and Heath are digital marketing folks who have hit the ground running since arriving to establish themselves in San Francisco for the next year. With her open mind, free flowing spirit and heavy hiking boots, Liv was sipping her gin & tonic spike with a slice of organic cucumber, while we dissected the “witty dialog” of the gin she had selected for her afternoon of Gin in the Sun.

So with a bit of a buzz, I headed back to my new home in the Haight, where I would continue with the seemingly endless internet dig into VLR of which I have been putting off in light of the sunny weather and blue skies. VLR being the Visas, Logistics and Reality of getting a US work visa, an Indian tourist visa and renewing Canadian passport - all at the same time. I am elated to say that at this point, despite the delays, all 3 are in the works to successfully be completed WOOHOO! Ok, so my original intent of this post was to share about India. More specifically -why. Why now? With who? Where? When? But alas, the sun is high noon now, the skies are still clear and this Sunday is calling my name. So India details will have to wait...until Tuesday :)

Riding the best wave in San Francisco…

To the jazzy horns of vintage jazz, I have found a loverly perch on 24th Street in the bustling, tree-lined avenue of 24th Street in Mission District. With its eclectic mix of indie coffee houses, taquerias, Latin grocery shops and the infamous street murals on any spare canvas space, the Mission District is ripe for musings of the Year of Passion.

While wondering 24th, just blocks away from my couch surfing heaven (more on that later), I am now sitting at a small pine table, no more than 2 x 2 feet, in the sunny window box of HAUS Coffee Shop. Complete with freelancers and life wanderers with MacBooks, headphones and minimalist style to match the 2 tone simplistic ambiance of the 15 ft ceiling loft space.

Riding this rollercoaster of YOP limbo, and desire to remove myself from the hostel downtown, in the name of the YOP, I decided to try Couch Surfing (CS). Having been a member for over 2 years, and yet to host or surf myself, now seemed like an opportune time to dive right in (pun somewhat intended). The concept is simple:

a) Register at couchsurfing.org

b) Search for hosts in the city you’re going to be in

c) Find a goodie

d) Send a friendly note seeing if they would host you

e) Get a reply

f) Surf away…

So on Monday, I sent 2 notes to 2 people that seemed an interesting match.

1) A fellow Vanessa, who has yet to reply (somewhat common for CS),and

2) Mr.S, a cyclist with an interesting profile, French Canadian language skills, and shaggy salt’n’pepper mane.

He wrote back and 2 days later, I found myself on the doorstep of a lovely 1st floor apartment.

A CS host who must have read my mind, when I walked in, was preparing a quinoa and curried chicken dish with homemade tzaziki and green bean salad and listening to Sublime (I believe). Friendly, warm and open, we chatted over lunch and later introduced me to a not-so-hidden aspect of the local cycling communite: Bike Kitchen. A DIY bike shop in the area is 1 part loft/industrial space, 1 part cycling advocacy HQ, 1 part build a bike repair centre and 3 parts amazingness.

He volunteers there, and before I headed to a CS picnic at Dolores Park, he help tuned up his neighbours road who I am borrowing for a few days (and yes I have fallen in love with it, and even the hills of the city). Events and gatherings are another aspect of CS and this picnic just the right dose of internationality to get my motor running. Joining a friend from the hostel, Bobby, the Manchester native with a keen wit and love of poker, particularly after a 16 day stint in Vegas with his mates, the group of open souls hailed from Russia, Abu Dhabi, and of course Canada, England and folks from the Bay Area.

After the sun set, (and the thermostat dropped at least 30 degrees – no joke) we headed to Taqueria Cancun on Mission Street. Although highly rated in travel books, the tacos were decent, but the free corn chips and cheap price ($3.00 for taco supreme) helped.

And now for today’s mission:

a) Write contacts made at Sustainable Brands 2010 – particularly coconut sponge guy Julien

b) Go to interview for an Internship with San Francisco Environment (the enviro arm of the City of San Francisco)

c) Snap some shots of Mission District

d) Go for a cycle around Golden Gate Park

e) Go to StumbleUpon Anniversary party downtown *

*this last one’s debateable.

Do what you love and the rest will follow…